May 31, 2010: Current Backpacking Trail Conditions in the High Sierras at Sonora Pass

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May 31 2010 finds the Sierra Crestline where it comes across Sonora Pass heavily impacted with snow. The snow at Sonora Pass, elevation 9640 feet, measured nine feet.

Sonora Pass May 31, 2010.

Sonora Pass is the low point on the Pacific Crest and Tahoe to Yosemite trail routes between Levitt Peak to the South, and Sonora Peak to the North. The elevation of Pacific Crest Trail as it passes through the Sonora Gap, 2.88 miles to the North of Sonora Pass, is 10,536 feet. The high point of the Pacific Crest Trail heading South across Levitt Peak is 10,800 feet, as it passes through the gap above and to the North of Latopie Lake at a distance of 2.38 miles South of the Sonora Pass.

Each of these peaks to the North and South of the Sonora Pass was heavily impacted with snow as of May 31. See the mileages and elevations associated with the terrain South and North of Sonora Pass.

Levitt Peak, to the South of Sonora Pass

Levitt Peak is encountered by Northbound PCT hikers at the Kennedy Canyon trail junction, and by Southbound backpackers at Sonora Pass. I don't anticipate that Northbound hikers will have too much trouble getting up to, and traversing the steep Southern Flank of Levitt that sits just North of the Kennedy Canyon Junction. Check this USGS map for the specific location of this junction where you begin climbing onto the Southern Levitt Massif.

Check out this video of the Kennedy Canyon junction from the Southern Flank of Levitt Peak. The video points out the route options available at this junction, including heading over Big Sam into the Emigrant Basin to reconnect with the PCT/Tahoe to Yosemite Trail at the Bond Pass entry into Yosemite, the PCT option of entering Yosemite by following the West Walker up through Dorthy Lake Pass, and, for Northbound travelers seeking to bypass Leavitt Peak and Sonora Peak due to heavy snow, you can follow the West Walker down to Leavitt Meadows, to continue your Northbound trip along the Sierra Crest at Wolf Creek Lake.

Levitt Peak Massif from Levitt Lake basin. I had already crossed Leavitt, coming from Sonora Pass, and was returning to the Eastern Sierra snowline at the snowgate down Highway 108, when winds stirred up this plume.

The Southern flank of Levitt Peak should be clear of most snow by this time. If not, as during Winter, the steep sections of this trail along Levitt's Southern flank may require crampons and at least an ice axe for safe passage.

The trail along Levitt's Southern Flank turns Northeast to cut into the Eastern shoulder of the mountain that contains Latopie Lake. From here to Latopie Lake is an easy cruise. But just North of Latopie Lake the Pacific Crest Trail route passes through a 10,800 foot gap where the trail passes over into a Northeastern facing section that is sure to be covered with snow, with a couple of hairy sections steep snow.

Getting from the gap above Latopie Lake across this Northeastern facing section to the Western flank of Levitt could present difficulty as this Northeast facing section contains one steep descent, and one long traverse, when covered with snow. Once you cross this section to reach the Western flank, the trail heads to the northern side of Levitt, where the trail route winds down in one big switchback between the northern shoulders to Sonora Pass.

This section of trail across the Northern flank between the shoulders down to the Sonora Pass is currently impassable. It can be traversed, but there is a much easier way to the Levitt Crest. When Levitt is bound in snow backpackers must follow the shoulder of Levitt Peak that extends up from Sonora Pass to the Massif's Northern peak. (Levitt Peak is actually just to the Southwest of Latopie Lake, though most people think it is the peak immediately to the South of the Sonora Pass.) This route directly up the ridge line from Sonora Pass to the Levitt Crest is the local's Summer shortcut, besides being the logical way up when snow covers Levitt Peak.

This section up the shoulder of Levitt to the crest along the mountain's shoulder will require an ice axe and crampons for safe travel in snow conditions.

Deep snow on the North face of Levitt Peak, like the rest of the mountains along the Sierra Crestline, will cause troubles for backpackers who are not prepared or accustomed to snow travel, until June 24, when the majority of Sierra Crest Trails will be clear of snow, by my estimation.

When I say that the high altitude trails will be clear of snow by June 24, independent of how clear the majority of High Altitude trails are, snow may and will continue to cover steep, shaded sections of trail that face Northeast across the length of the Sierra Crest. 

For instance, this likely means that you will encounter challenging sections of snow across the Pacific Crest Trail as you wind your way through and around deep drainages cut into Northeastern facing mountainsides, such as those routinely traversed between Ebbetts Pass and the Boulder Lake trail junction above the East Fork of the Carson River. On these Northeast facing sections you will likely find sections of steep trail covered by large, slick, sections of hard snow that have turned parts of your trail along steep mountainsides into real obstacles.

You will generally have two choices when faced with these conditions when backpacking in late Spring and early Summer without crampons and an ice axe. The first is to kick steps into the snow blocking the trail. Always make sure that your steps can hold you. The second is to wait until later in the day, when the heat will soften these blocked sections enough that your boots will sink in enough to provide support and traction.

In either case, be careful! If you misjudge the snow, or your skills and strength, you can get yourself in some real trouble.

Sonora Peak and the Sonora Gap, to the North of Sonora Pass

The Northbound Pacific Crest Trail arcs West and gains elevation out of Sonora Pass, before turning East to traverse the thin trail along Sonora Peak's sheer Southern flank. The trail is heading towards the gap in the mountainside that divides the Southwestern Stanislaus drainage of Sonora Pass from the Eastern drainage of Wolf Creek.

I call this gap between the Southern and Eastern flanks of Sonora Peak the Sonora Gap. It, and the trail along Sonora Peak's Southern flank are critical positions that must be snow-free to be safely crossed.

The PCT across Eastern Flank of Sonora Peak, partially covered with snow fields, on the North side of the Sonora Gap. This position sits above Wolf Creek Lake. At the Gap, the backpacker looks South across Sonora Pass at Levitt Peak.

As of May 31, 2010, the majority of the Pacific Crest Trail along the cliff under Sonora Peak was covered with near vertical snow. I could make out the line of snow that filled the trail just South of the Sonora Gap from my position at Sonora Pass. The Gap itself looked like it had a 20 to 25 foot ice wall plugging the gap.

This section looked impassable on May 31, 2010, though a highly experienced expert may be able to traverse the vertical snow sections under Sonora Peak, and even climb the ice wall plugging the gap, I'm not that man. But I've seen it done.

It was about a decade ago that I made my way to the Sonora Gap from the North, during this same time of year, in late May. I had not encountered one PCT hiker in the snow filled mountains South of Sonora Pass, until I was making my final approach to the Sonora Gap from above Wolf Creek Lake. Then I met the first PCTer to make it that far.

Heading South past and above Wolf Creek Lake towards Sonora Gap. The Gap was blocked, presenting a formidable drop down an ice face. The trail beyond was covered with near vert snow. I retreated down to Wolf Creek, and followed its drainage down the Eastern flank of the Sierras.

Lo and behold, coming down from the gap towards me was what turned out to be a little Frenchman. He was very lightly packed and laded, and he had just used his ice axes and crampons to get across this dangerous section of snow filled trail, cliffs really, and climbed up and over the ice plug in the Sonora Gap. An amazing piece of work. After a clumsy set of greetings, as he spoke little English, and I no French, I continued up to the gap, where I looked down a 25 foot wall of ice plugging the gap. Below, I could see bits of the trail, where the vertical snow covering bits of the trail had fallen away.

No frkn way!

When the gap and the trail are plugged, on can get around this problem by following the Wolf Creek Lake drainage (Wolf Creek) East, down to a dirt road that leads to the Marine Base on Highway 108.

Wolf Creek Lake frozen in Winter Ice, just North of the Sonora Gap. The drainage follows the valley to the East.

Wolf Creek Lake in Spring. I passed through the Sonora Gap to the Sonora Pass in these conditions.

The Marine base sits to the East of Sonora Pass, in Pickle Meadow, at 6800 feet. The Sonora Gap sits at 10,400 feet. From the Marine Base you have a few options.

You can hike or hitchhike up to Sonora Pass, where you will be faced with Levitt Peak's snowy bulk. Or you can walk East up Highway 108 to the Levitt Pack Station, in Levitt Meadow, and follow the West Walker River up to rejoin the Pacific Crest Trail a few miles to the North of Dorthy Lake Pass. This route option will bypass Sonora Peak, Sonora Pass, and Levitt Peak.

What this all means to the Backpacker

Summer is rapidly approaching. If you are a Summer backpacker, you still have a couple of weeks to wait for the trails to clear of the majority of snow cover. Though the high trails are presently covered with rapidly melting snow, these conditions are also presenting the average backpacker with excellent opportunities to stretch out their skills a bit.

If you are fit, skilled, and properly equipped, taking a few days to cross Levitt Peak from Sonora Pass, drop down to Levitt Lakes from Latopie Lake, and then follow the snow covered four wheel route down to where it intersects with Highway 108 to the East of Sonora Pass is a highly rewarding trip.

The Gap above Latopie Lake on the South side of the Levitt Massif, viewed from the Levitt Lake basin. I had just used my ice axe to glissade from the gap down to Latopie Lake.

For the less adventurous, a snowshoe trip up the Levitt Lake road for a night or two at Levitt Lake would be a fine introduction to snow travel. The same opportunities are available from the Western flank.

Starting at Kennedy Meadows Pack Station, about 14 miles West of the Sonora Pass, the intrepid backpacker can follow the trail past Relief Reservoir, aiming to bust into the High Emigrant Basin in the Emigrant Wilderness through Brown Bear Pass.

Kennedy Meadows Pack Station: Completely Backpacker Friendly. Great People, Great Visitors

The 9000 foot floor of the Emigrant Basin is surrounded by closely jointed pink-hued granite, and is spotted with crystal blue lakes. These features look stunning draped in the last snows of Spring.

View of Emigrant Basin during scramble to high points