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August Open Thread: High Sierra Trail Condition Reports
Video: Grizzly Meadow, Emigrant Wilderness. The video above ends when a massive swarm of mosquitoes engulfed me.
Have you had recent experiences along the Sierra Crest and flanks between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney? Do you live or work in a location that gives you a view of the High Trails? Have you been swarmed by mosquitoes on the Sierra Crest lately? Post your experiences, observations, and questions about Sierra Conditions below. We are all interested in how quickly the snows are uncovering the trails, trail conditions, bits of snow cover along the trail, MOSQUITO CONDITIONS, fording conditions, weather, local weather, and anything that you observed or experienced. Cowboys, Mule Packers, Hunters, trail workers, Rangers, Car Campers and Day Hikers, as well as backpackers, are all welcome to post their observations and experiences about Spring Trail Conditions in the High Sierras. If you could, post the date, location, and conditions you experienced along our High Sierra Trails.
Check out the comments and posts below for lots of good information from High Sierra Backpackers.
Note on Stubblefield Video below: I actually had 3 holes in my feet, two additional on the L foot. The majority of the damage was done on the cross-country section of my trip along the E Carson River between Carson Falls and its junction with the PCT about 8 miles North of Sonora Pass. The difficulty of this terrain (the route has deteriorated in recent years) caused lots of "smears" and "wedges" (foot positions that are undesirable-I will expound about this when I complete the "Art of Walking" section) that tore my feet up...After that hiking was bearable through the 12 mile point each day, and after that it was hell. Such is life.
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I just got off of the phone with three friends of mine who are residents of Tuolumne Meadows.
First, I talked to one of the senior trail crew chiefs, Erin Anders. Erin said that the mosquitoes were, "a non-issue." He was just at Vogelsang and reported mosquito populations as "low." Glen Aulin, Tuolumne Meadows, and Lyell appear to have dried out sufficiently to bring mosquito populations down to normal for this time of year, and from August 1 to the 15th we are seeing the end of the mosquito season.
Erin cautioned that areas that are still holding ground water and are shaded (such as Wilmer Lake) would still be holding mosquitoes.
He also cautioned that springs dependent on aquifers had not been recharged by this wet Spring, and that one decent Winter does not make up for years of low precipitation.
So if you are depending on a spring, or a small tributary, for your water supply, you may want to have alternative plans and options. As always, don't put all your eggs in one basket. But don't freak out too much, as all the main drainages are flowing.
Second, I talked to Micheal Kochakji, a long-time member of Tuolumne Meadows staff, who is the Postmaster of the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office. Micheal stated that the mosquito season at TM had ended, and the black fly season was currently coming to a close. He said the weather and hiking conditions were optimal.
Third, I talked to Francis Shoshone, a legendary figure in his own mind. You can tell this by his motto: "Francis Shoshone Sees All, Tells All."
He was quite vocal in his assessment of the situation: "The PCTers are gone, and now we are left with a bunch of weekend warrior crybaby JMTers who think a couple of days on the trail make them soooo special."
Well, as you can see, Francis does not pull any punches, so when I ask him a question, I've got to be ready for his brutal honesty. And I will print it.
So I asked what these city people pouring onto the trail could do to improve their demeanor? His answer was quick and clear: "Be Nice." I couldn't agree more.
I think about being nice from the Backpacker's perspective: Look your fellow hikers in the eye. Note their physical condition. Do they need anything? Everything Cool?
Then, if they are hiking down the trail you are hiking up, you can always query them as to trail conditions, campsites, and things of interest that they have seen on the trail you are hiking up. And you should inform them about any notable trail conditions your experienced. At the very least, you should always share a friendly greeting.
But Francis has been a TM "Local" for many years, and his perspective comes from how backpackers treat his friends who work and play at Tuolumne Meadows. So I want all you backpackers to be nice to the Staff, Rangers, High Sierra Camp Crews, and Trail Workers you meet on the trail and at the trail heads. It will make it a lot easier for me to deal with Francis if my fellow backpackers are nice...
To try to change the subject, I asked about this year's crop of PCTers, of which Francis appeared to approve of. Francis was quick to reply, "Truly a pleasure to deal with, a really strong group this year, but what's up with the skirts?"
Well, I had met BRAINS heading North on the PCT in his green KILT, (no Francis, they are not skirts, they are Kilts...) and thought no more of it than a quick chuckle.
But Francis can be a bit hard on backpackers, especially if they piss him off. I pushed Francis on this a bit, at my own risk, and Francis would only say, "Skirts are not cool, man." I let it go at that.
So there you have it, straight from Tuolumne Meadows today, August 9, 2010: The skeeters are all but gone, the black flies are on their way out, and "skirts are not cool."
As I indicated in my note to Rik, below, I expect granitic basins, such as the one composing Emigrant Basin, to hold water, and high mosquito populations, late into the season. Locations such as Wilmer Lake, nestled in the arms of Balley Ridge, with its beautiful green marshy apron, will still be holding crazy amounts of mosquitoes, and I believe it will hold them through the middle of August.
So I'm going to call it: The mosquito season is all but over, or is in rapid decline, except for those areas that are still holding moisture due to the terrain, such as granite bowls and deeply shaded valleys. And I expect those locations to be virtually mosquito free by August 21 or so.
Happy Trails, and be Nice!
Alex
I just returned from a 100+ mile Southbound trip from North of Sonora Pass to Tuolumne Meadows. (See the Trip Plan and the Big Regional Map, as well as the detailed maps of the East Carson to Sonora Pass, the Sonora Pass to Bensen Lake map, as well as the Bensen Lake to Virginia Canyon map and the Virginia Canyon to Tuolumne Meadows map.
I varied off of the PCT route by swinging through Kennedy Meadows and following the Tahoe to Yosemite route through the Emigrant Wilderness, specifically across the Emigrant Basin via Brown Bear Pass to rejoin the PCT in Northern Yosemite's backcountry below Bond Pass.
This trip transpired between July 23 and August 1.
Mosquito conditions
Mosquito conditions were at the worst levels for this time of year that I have seen. They were just crazy, more like late June than late July. I am tattooed with mosquito bites.
During the span of my trip the percentage of mosquito excess went from 85% (185% of normal) to 40% (140% of normal) for this time of year. Ground conditions were still damp, though not wet, when I departed.
Required Mosquito Gear
I utilized a long-sleeved collared shirt, long pants tucked into the socks, and a mosquito net. Many PCTers were hiking in mosquito nets. I also used a lot of DEET when climbing steep mountains, as the long sleeve and long pants were just too hot. This made me quite susceptible to massive mosquito attack. But the news is not all bad.
Mosquito Population Prediction
The sustained high temps are rapidly drying out the ground, and appear to be having a cumulative effect on mosquito populations, which were dropping precipitously during my last few days on the trail. It was a very noticeable decline.
Here's what I think is happening, and will happen: The late season snow maintained very wet conditions, and very high mosquito populations, until now. At this point sustained heat has about dried out the terrain to moisture levels normal for this time of Summer. Many lower elevation meadows are dried out, and the higher elevation meadows and river courses are not far behind
This indicates to me that the mosquito populations are going to dramatically drop down to seasonal norms when the heat finally finishes drying out the soil. I believe that by August 15 mosquito populations are going to be down to normal August 15 levels, which is about when they diminish to insignificance during a normal season.
This "return to normalcy" is already underway, and normal mosquito conditions for this time of year are going to correlate very soon, possibly before the 15th. The big open meadows are rapidly drying out, as are the wider river valleys.
There are exceptions. Granite basins are still holding excess moisture, and excess mosquito population, and will likely do so through August 15. Certain shaded steep granite valleys are also maintaining wet conditions. But these locations are also drying out, albeit more slowly due to their specific characteristics.
So it looks like you may see slightly elevated mosquito populations from August 1st to the 15th, but I anticipate the end of the mosquito season will occur around August 15, as usual, and populations will drop to normal levels between now and then.
There is one scenario that may prolong the mosquito season beyond August 15. If a series of powerful thunderstorms brings prodigious rains, this may provide the moisture necessary to recharge the mosquitoes. But I believe it is unlikely.
Fording Conditions
All rivers and creeks that I encountered have dropped to levels low enough to make for an easy wade across. Many of the creeks have dropped low enough that the trail crew created stepping stone paths across them have emerged. Most still require an easy wade. Soon you will be able to cross most of the rivers and creeks without wading. Water temps are unusually high. Most rivers and lakes were as warm as I've seen them. I expect late season water temps to be downright tepid!
Snow Tongues
There were no snow tongues across any parts of the trail that I traveled, but I did note two snow tongues across the PCT on the North Flank of the Leavitt Massif when I crossed Sonora Pass on the way to my Eastern Flank trailhead. Leavitt is the big peak immediately to the South of the Sonora Pass along the Pacific Crest Trail.
I could see from my viewpoint at Sonora Pass that the snow tongues across this section of the trail had been deeply cut by the many hikers who had already cut paths across them. I expect that these now-minor obstacles will shortly be melted off the mountain.
Here's the deal about snow tongues across steep sections of the trail: If you can kick steps into it to form a path across, fine. If not, wait until the temps rise and the icy surface softens, and you will find that you may sink into the softened snow sufficiently to hold you on the surface. Waiting for higher temps will also make it very easy for you to kick, or stomp, steps into the snow tongues that cross your trail.
But this is all fairly academic now, as continual high daily temps have all but melted the snow off of the crest trails.
Weather
The temps ran into the high '80s during the day. There were 4 nights out of 10 when the temps made your sleeping bag unnecessary. There were only two nights when the temps dropped below 40 degrees.
But I still needed to put up my tent to protect myself against mosquitoes.
Thunderstorms. Two afternoons presented thunderstorms, replete with rain, hail, and lightening. The first storm hit when I was at 8400 feet, crossing the high point between Rodriquez Flat and the Silver King River. This was the second year in a row that thunder and lightening greeted me as I crossed that high ridge. I scooted off the high point as quickly as possible. The second thunderstorm found me crossing the Sonora Gap at 10400 feet, motivating me to run down the trail along Sonora Peak's Southern flank down to Sonora Pass, to safety.
Remember, lightening strikes are a leading cause of backpacker death. Though the Sierras were not producing daily thunderstorms right now (early August, 2010), they are a constant threat during the Summer, and you must consider this fact and keep a close eye on the Western skies when crossing peaks and passes from 2pm to sunset. These powerful storms can pop up as if out of nowhere.
Alex
Hey Jon, The first video is a panoramic view of Grizzly Meadow, and that volcanic cone is Grizzly Peak.
I shot that short video on July 27 as I crossed Emigrant Meadow Basin, Grizzly Meadow, and Summit Meadow to enter Yosemite through Bond Pass. The snows have receded into smallest nooks and crannies on the Northeast side of those beautifully carved granitic structures in Grizzly Meadow. It was merely decorative, and I doubt there's any snow there now.
The trails to Bond Pass are completely open from all directions: Leavitt Pack Station up the West Walker through Dorthy Lake Pass is clear, Summit Creek from Kennedy Meadows through Brown Bear Pass is clear, and the PCT route from Sonora Pass is clear, except as noted below.
There were two small snow tongues on the North flank of the Leavitt Massif, where the PCT climbs from the pass between the mountain's shoulders, but they were well cut by the boots of many hikers. I'll bet they are gone now.
The high altitude meadows in the Emigrant Basin are not just clear of snow, they have already bloomed through that flattened, matted stage into a rainbow of verdant greens.
And those conditions have brought out the extremely high populations of mosquitoes that the Basin is noted for in Spring. I'm talking crazy swarming masses of mosquitoes.
The reason for high mosquito populations in Emigrant Basin is that the basin is essentially a vast granite bowl carved by ancient glaciers. The soil in the basin was eroded from the surrounding peaks. The soil, and the grasses that grow out of it, the lakes, and, along with everything else in the Emigrant Meadow is contained in a big granite bowl. This bowl holds a normal year's Spring runoff moisture far into the Summer, and this was not a normal Spring.
I'll bet dollars to dimes that the Emigrant Basin is still holding very high populations of mosquitoes, and will hold them through August. These facts should not discourage you, but impel you to bring the proper gear for the worst case you may encounter.
So, I'd say it would be very prudent to have long pants, (I use nylon zip-to-shorts pants) a long-sleeve shirt with a collar, a mosquito net that will fit from your collar over your hat brim, and a good supply of high concentration DEET.
I don't think sandals are a good camp shoe yet, and, as alway, a tent will make sleeping possible when the mosquitoes are thick. And they were, and will be, thick in the Emigrant Basin for awhile.
Have a great hike, and post up a report on the mosquitoes, and your trip, when you get back.
Alex
Hey Jon, That sounds like it was an excellent trip, though the meadows are tough when the snow cover is collapsing. Prior to that the snow actually makes things easier, as you can generally take a direct route to your destination, rather than follow the convolutions of the trail.
It's during that point between snow and solid that things get sticky!It is during Spring you can understand the logic behind the trail routes that skirt soft, wet meadows filled with runoff.
A couple of months later, many backpackers ask, "Why does this trail loop around this big solid meadow? Well, if you were hiking through in Spring, you would understand the route.
I'm afraid that though the ground is now solid, the air and grasses will still be choked with mosquitoes in the Emigrant Basin and its meadows. But, I believe that you can keep them at bay, and yourself at peace, with the proper clothes and the DEET.
And, I think that you will be rewarded with the treasures of Spring; the flowers, the baby chipmunks, the bear cubs, and all the baby birds should all still be out in large numbers, before they eat each other, and the Spring bloom of life returns to Summertime population levels.
I've camped at Grizzly Peak Lake in early June, and there were dozens of baby chipmunks around my camp. I return in July, and about a dozen are left. And the ones that are left take few chances. They watched the birds and coyotoes pick off their brethern, and they are determined to avoid that fate!
It is not just the physical environment that changes between Spring and Summer, but the character and disposition of the animals change as well.
I'm really looking forward to hearing about your trip!
Alex
I'm on it. I'll hit my connections in Tuolumne, and hopefully have you an up to date view by Tuesday. Stay Tuned!
But a couple of things that I would just take for granted: Long sleeve shirt, Long pants, and a hat connected to the shirt by a mosquito net. DEET.
With these things in the pack you will be indemnified from the worst of it. But the worst is in decline, and I expect that you will face near-normal mosquito conditions on the 13th.
The 15th is the date I traditionally assign to the point when the majority of the skeeters have been dried-out of the terrain.
The weather up to the First, and to now, has been warm enough to bring the drying out of the terrain up date, so to speak. The excessive wettness of this very wet spring is about gone, and I expect the crashing mosquito populations that I experienced from July 28 to August 1st has continued.
I'll check with my buddies in TM, get you an update, but when you come back you have to post your report on mosquitoes, weather (I expect the afternoon T-storms to pick up)and trail culture. (a lot of people? Few people?)
Alex
See the update above, posted on the August 8 from Tuolumne and Vogelsang. I would extrapolate from those reports the mosquito conditions in dried-out areas are going to be low, while in wet, shaded areas they will be a bit higher.
But, the "swarming masses" phase is over, yet I would not limit my clothing selection to shorts and a tank top, nor would I leave my DEET at home.
Last minute advice: As always in the Sierras, plan for the worst and hope for the best. Take the time to Enjoy the View. Take the time to meet cool people from around the country and around the world.
Practical last minute advice: Use an 8" snow stake for a shit trowel instead of those plastic pieces of #&*.
Keep your feet clean and dry by changing your socks regularly during the day: Sun Bleach and dry one pair on your pack when you wear the other.
The days are about 13 hours long and hot. Reserve the energy required to backpack for the number of hours you will be on the trail.
Only filter the camp water you are going to drink, and not the water you are going to boil. This will save you a lot of filtering time and prolong the life of your filter.
Post up a conditions report when you get back!
Have a great hike,
Alex
Hey AB,
I am tardy responding because I too just hiked the same route, again... It sounds like you had an exceptional trip. Your trip report is exceptional. It covers all the main points we need to know about.
But, how heavy was your pack? A 7 day load is heavy, and that terrain is difficult. Did you deploy tents against mosquitoes and cold? Did 7 days give you enough time to fish, ie, having enough time at the lakes and rivers to do them justice? I met two dudes who had packed 10 days for the same trip, while I packed it at 5. Between us we have quite a range of paces...
I departed Kennedy Meadows Pack Station on Sept 1, walking into Glen Aulin at exactly 4:20 pm on Monday the 6th. I then spent two nights at Glen Aulin with an exceptional Yosemite Backcountry Trail Crew before making the short 6.8 mile hike to Tuolumne Meadows on Wednesday the 8th. So although I did the bulk of the 87 miles in five days, I deferred the last miles until after a good long visit with the trail crew.
So I will shortly add a September update to your report, which will be the basis of the September High Sierra Trail Conditions report. But I just got back, and am running at 110% to catch up...You know how that is, needing a vacation after your "vacation."
But your report well described how the High Sierra conditions were developing through late August, which my September report will build off of.
I had four reasons to run this route again, with the only difference from your route being that I started at Kennedy Meadows rather than Sonora Pass. There was a good reason for that, in addition to the extra 12 miles (+/-) of distance and 3000 feet of elevation that starting at the Kennedy Meadows trail head extracted from me.
First, I set up a proper hiker can at Kennedy Meadows Pack Station, to replace their funky cardboard box. I provided Kennedy Meadows with a fine metal mini-garbage can, who's top is secured with a handle/latch. Hikers that are passing through KM with extra food should contribute that extra food to the hiker can for subsequent hikers to use. Hikers that are short on food should raid the hiker can...
Second, I needed to film the trail from Smedberg, where I had previously ran out of batteries during a filming trip that was supposed to capture the trails from Smedberg to Tuolumne Meadows. I needed these films to fill out my complete set of videos covering the main trails from Lake Tahoe to Mount Whitney. At this point I am only lacking film of the distance from TM to Donohue Pass, and bits of the Tahoe to Yosemite Route. Collecting these video clips means that I am going to soon turn my attention from this year's hiking season back to finishing the trail guide itself.
Third, I took up an invite from a Yosemite Trail Crew to come by and visit their camp, which I did. I spent two nights with Erin Ander's Yosemite National Park Trail Crew hanging out, working, and observing. I am now working up an article about Trail Crew life, their amazing culture, and their amazing work in the Sierras.
Fourth, This route is among the most challenging and beautiful along the whole Sierra Crest, and I was thrilled to walk it yet again, though I was hoping to make a run from Tuolumne to Whitney during this time period. But the website needs what the website needs...
Thanks again for your exceptional report. What's next on your hiking agenda? I figure I'm hanging up my Summer Gear for the season, and will not hit the mountains again until snows cover the trails. This is because if I don't stop hiking, the trail guide will never get finished! So I'm turning from backpacking itself to laying out backpacking maps, miles and elevations, videos of each location, and of course many pictures of the local flora, fauna, and terrain of the various routes between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney.
It is an unfortunate fact that writing about backpacking takes more time than backpacking itself!
Alex